10 TIPS FOR LIVING IN NEPAL

1. Don’t get overwhelmed. If you have not traveled to India or Nepal before it is much different and will take an adjustment. Just remember to breathe, everything is all right your finally off the plane and through customs.

2. There is no price set for taxis servicing the international and domestic terminals. The price to travel from the airport to Thamel should be Rs. 300, but never pay more than Rs. 400. If you are really good get them to use their meters, which they hate.

3. Tourists stay in one of three areas in Kathmandu: Thamel, Boudha and Freak Street. Thamel is the bar area in Kathmandu and has extensive infrastructure. It has food, bars, barbers, hotels, and anything imaginable. Besides the nick nacks, and fake North Face apparel all of the trekking companies are based in this neighborhood. Boudha is an enclave of Tibetan people and culture, with many monastaries and rug factories.It is possible to stay in guesthouses within a monastery compound. Freak Street mimics Thamel, but is a bit smaller.

4. Power cuts, also known as “load shedding” is an every day occurrence year round. This can be only a few hours during the monsoon to upwards of eighteen during the winter months. When finding a guest house inquire if the hotel has a power backup.

5. If staying in Boudha or Freak Street have your passport stamped by the UNESCO entrances, so you can travel freely without paying compounding entrance fees.

6. There is no such thing as a free cup of tea. You will meet many people on the streets of Kathmandu. It can be anyone from trekking agents to innocent looking street kids, but in general if someone asks you to go somewhere say no. This prevents spending hours in basements of trekking offices, or buying powdered milk that gets sold back to the store.

7. Kathmandu has many good day trips within the city limits for your free time. Rock climbing has become very popular in Shivapuri Watershed Preserve that was bolted by the NMA last year. Kayaking is available on the Bhote Kosi in the nearby Kavre. Bungee jumping, golf, movies, shopping, and watersports are nearby.

8. Eat local foods and bring if you love it bring it from home. The only food chains operating in Nepal are Pizza Hut, and Kentucky Fried Chicken. Fresh, simple, local food can be found in almost any Nepalese restaurant. By far the most popular dish is Dhal Bhaat followed by Mo-Mo’s. Don’t assume you can purchase it in Nepal but shops have a pretty good selection.

9. The United States operates two embassies in Kathmandu. In the event of an emergency you should contact the main building in Maharajgunj. The second embassy is across from the Royal Palace and is known as the “clubhouse”. If you need your visa renewed contact Nepal Immigration having regular business hours during the week, you will need an extra page in your passport.

10. BE CAREFUL. Kathmandu is no more dangerous than Chicago, but that does not mean you should be thoughtless. Exercise good judgment; be aware of your situation, and culturally sensitive. Hindu culture has many differences than secular America so here are a few pointers: don’t point your feet, don’t touch people on the head, and avoid just barging into temples with photography equipment.

I wonder how I came to this place, and how just months ago I could not imagine being in the midst of the majestic Himalaya mountain range. I am from the Midwest where mountains are few and far between, ice is measured only on our roadways, and the altitude is just a tick above sea level. So what takes a person from the cornfields of Indiana to the peaks of the Himalaya? Maybe it was the pending planetary alignment.

The compulsion to travel to Nepal came from a single picture of a house, nothing more. My first visit to the Himalaya focused on mountain biking in the Annapurna Trekking region. After about a week of riding, my guide told me that I should definitely see the tigers in Chitwan National Park. So I left Khatmandu and made my way to Lumbini(the historical home of Buddha), and then finally on to Pokhara. It was a fifteen day trip that was the most physically demanding and rewarding journey that I had ever taken. From traveling downhill on thin mountain passes at reckless speeds to rounding a corner with an angry bull waiting, the biking was unlike anything in the United States.

Three years later I find myself leaving Tribhuvan’s aging domestic airport departing for the most dangerous airport in the world, the notorious Lukla airstrip. Sitting on the edge of a cliff this small landing strip is more a backwoods bootlegger than a domestic airport. Lukla requires perfect conditions and a talented pilot just to keep the plane in one piece. We departed from the airport, and that day were within the confines of Sagarmartha National Park. It was given world heritage status in 1976. The valley floor starts above 10,000 feet, and contains the world’s highest peaks. It was an eight-day walk to make it to the jump-off point for Island Peak, Chukkung. The first major stop on the road was Namche Baazar, famous for being the last portal to the internet and home of the $12 can of Guinness. It is here that for the first time you can actually see Mount Everest off in the distance. Even better, Ama Dablam appears to be so close you could reach out and touch it.

Ten cliff bars and gallons of Gatorade later, I was on the last leg of the journey, making my way to the outpost. I was exhausted and the guides were far behind me, so I lay in a field bordering the trail. I had traveled more than 5 hours a day and gained more elevation on one trail than I had accumulated in my entire lifetime for trekking in nepal. Looking towards Mount Everest we could see our objective off in the distance. Island Peak received its name because it appears to be an island rising up from a sea of ice. It’s actually an extension ridge of Lhotse with the true summit topping out at over twenty thousand feet. We would complete the round trip to the summit and back in less than twelve hours, leaving little time for mountain shenanigans.

At 3am we left camp for the moderate climb up crumbling rocks. We could see the reflections of headlamps far above from a slower Japanese group. It was snowing lightly, and we were making good time. The climb became somewhat sketchy near the top with exposed sections of easy, un-roped climbing. When we made it to crampon point the sun was rising above Ama Dablam, and I began to strap the futuristic snowshoes to my gnarled feet. I shoved an opened cliff bar into the top of the bag that held my headlamp, and documents.

As we moved into the snow section of Island peak my senses went on high alert. I walked a narrow strip of snow flanked on both sides by steep cliffs. As we rounded the corner the field became flat and slightly up hill. We had finally made it to the ice wall. The few groups before us had cut fresh steps into the wall for the new season. At first, I was worried about the number of people on the rope at the same time. My concerns were quickly settled when my guide reassured me that he had done this trek literally hundreds of times. The Japanese group was slowing and creating a bottleneck near the top. After passing the slow group, the climb itself was very nice and not difficult. You simply had to step and set your feet.

The final ridge is just ahead. It was a long way up to the summit, but that only made getting there more rewarding. My friend Jangbu and I found a place to sit and he managed to light a Marlboro Red. We sat for several minutes silently looking down at earth, planning for the hard part - getting down. Just a side note: when I got back to my pack at crampon point the top of the bag was empty. After throwing around blind accusations, evidence pointed at the circling ravens that can open zippers. Believe me, it’s true.